Holmes Dress Skirt Hack

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

The Holmes Dress is one of those patterns that we’re confident you will keep coming back to. It’s really wearable, comfortable, and timeless! Not only that, but with a few quick tweaks, you can turn the bottom half into a standalone skirt! In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to make four skirt variations: a long or a short skirt with a hem ruffle, and a simple long or short skirt without the hem ruffle. You’ll end up with a drawstring and/or elastic waist and you get to keep those awesome deep pockets! 

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

Get the Holmes Dress

Tools & Supplies Needed

    • Extra paper

    • Ruler

    • Pen or pencil

    • Paper scissors

    • 1/2” (1.3cm) wide elastic

    • Holmes Dress pattern

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
    • Front Skirt (4)
    • Back Skirt (5)
    • Pocket (6)
    • Drawstring Casing (9) 

Optional:

    • Drawstring (10) - only if you want to add a drawstring
    • Skirt Ruffle (12) - only if you want to include the ruffle

Pattern Modifications

You only need to make one small pattern change: lengthening the drawstring casing.

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
    • Sizes 0–22: add 2 3/8” (6 cm) to the length of the Drawstring Casing (9)

    • Sizes 12–34: add 3” (7.6 cm) to the length of the Drawstring Casing (9)

That’s it—no other pattern pieces need to be adjusted!

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

About my Holmes Skirt

I chose to make my Holmes Skirt in a lightweight block printed cotton from Blackbird Fabrics. I opted for an elasticated waist with no drawstring. I love how comfortable it is! The skirt can be worn on my natural waist or a bit lower if I want - that flexibility is really nice.

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

I made view A of Holmes and the only modification I made was to do an exposed ruffle on the upper edge of the skirt ruffle. This adds some great visual interest! To do this, simply fold over and finish the top edge of your hem ruffle before gathering and sewing it to the outside of your skirt. You are layering the two pieces together, not sewing them right sides together. 

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

I’m very happy I made this Holmes Skirt because I can see myself wearing this all summer long! I can’t wait. I would love to make more, including the shorter view with the hem ruffle. 

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

Construction Steps

Follow Steps 21–32 in the Holmes Dress Instruction Booklet to construct the skirt.

If you’re skipping the ruffle, follow Steps 21–25 only. Finish the hem by folding it 1/4” (0.6 cm) to the wrong side twice and edgestitching in place.

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

If you are adding a drawstring, reinforce the buttonhole area first: 

  1. Apply two 3/4” (1.9 cm) squares of interfacing to the wrong side of the drawstring casing pieces at the center front edge (the edge without the notch). Position the interfacing slightly off center so it lands on the outer layer once the casing is folded in half.
  2. Sew a 1/4” (0.6 cm) vertical buttonhole on the casing piece, placing it 3/4” (1.9 cm) from the center front edge, and 5/8” (1.6 cm) from the long edge. 
Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

Next, let’s make the waistband!

  1. Press both drawstring casing pieces in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
  2. With right sides together, sew the casing pieces together at the short ends using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance to form a loop. 
  3. Fold the assembled waistband in half with the wrong sides together and press again, if needed.

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

Attach the waistband to the skirt next. 

  1. On the skirt front, mark the center front by bringing the two notches closest to the front together and marking the midpoint. Note: These notches were used to line up the ends of the drawstring casing to the skirt. You can ignore them now.
  2. With right sides together, pin the waistband to the skirt. Match the notches on the waistband to the side seams. Match the waistband seams to the center front and back notches on the skirt. If you are adding a buttonhole, make sure the buttonholes face the right side of the skirt. 
  3. Sew the waistband to the skirt using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, leaving a 2” (5 cm) opening to insert the elastic. Press the waistband up and the seam allowances towards the skirt.

Holmes Skirt Sewing Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

Now it's time to insert the elastic.

  1. Cut 1/2” (1.3 cm) elastic to your preferred length by wrapping it around your waist until it is snug but comfortable. Add 1” (2.5 cm) for an overlap. 
  2. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread the elastic through the waistband, bringing it back out on the other side of the opening. 
  3. Make sure the elastic is not twisted and then overlap the ends by 1/2” (1.3 cm) and secure them with a few rows of stitching.
  4. Stretch the waistband a few times to distribute the elastic evenly. Sew the opening closed and finish the seam allowances with your preferred method. 

If you’ve chosen to add a drawstring, follow Steps 40–43 in the Holmes Dress Instruction Booklet to insert it. Then your skirt is finished!

Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns
Holmes Dress Skirt Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Helen's Closet Patterns

If you try this hack, make sure to tag us @helens__closet and let us know which skirt view you chose! Happy sewing!

The Holmes Dress and the Lazo Jumpsuit are both on sale this week for 25% off! No coupon code required. If you purchase both patterns during the sale, you get an additional 10% off! Coupon code automatically applies at checkout. Sale ends March 18, 2026.

Shop the Holmes Dress and Lazo Jumpsuit

Get 25% off the Holmes Dress and Lazo Jumpsuit - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

Do you have feedback or questions about this blog post? Please reach out to us at [email protected]. We would love to hear from you!

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